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Volcanic rock, sulphur vents, and the kind of Mediterranean light that makes everything look like a film still. The whole place smells like eggs and looks like paradise. Every restaurant serves the same caponata and acts like they invented it. They might have. You don’t argue with people who live on a volcano.

There’s a lake. On the lake there’s an island. On the island there’s a church. It looks like a screensaver and you’d think it’s tacky except it’s genuinely one of the most beautiful things you’ve ever seen. Also the cream cake is unreasonably good for something that costs two euros.